West to the Lake

Today we say goodbye to Leutasch and Seefeld. We hope to return-maybe in winter, come to think of it! How pleasant it would be to strap on the XC skis and roam these hills and valleys in their blanket of white, and slide into a village for a hot toddy!

Our route thus far (blue is today’s drive): 

Last morning at the White Horse hotel. Una found the “perfect strawberry” on the breakfast table.

“Actually, Una, it’s not quite perfect. See the tiny, black blemish, lower center? See it?”

“Yes, papa.”




Weisses Röessl, nul stern (zero star) hotel was a quirky, fun place.

No ski boots or Italian politicians allowed on the upper floors, but german shepards, rabbits, chickens, gays and bike gangs were welcome.

 Walt loadin’ up in back lot.

 Little onion dome church down the way

  loved and not forgotten

 There were lots of Neuners in this graveyard.


The church felt bigger on the inside: 



And we’re off! Down the into the Valley of the Inn river (as in Innsbrück.)


And then up again, over the pass in The Arlberg, home of famous ski areas Lech, Zürs and St. Anton. Good hiking country too, but today was cold and foggy. We just made a short stop by a little river to stretch the legs and get some high mountain air in our lungs.


These 16 yr. old Germans were tough! Cycling up from Lake Constance with a plan to bike all the way to Venice (over a couple days).


We found our hotel in Dornbirn and had a look around the center…

…and caught our train to Bregenz. Dornbirn had a smart policy: free train ride to Bregenz for those who held tickets to the Bregenz Opera Festival- good for the cheaper Dornbirn hotels.

Bregenz Oper auf dem Bodensee. You could get in before the show and watch them set up. We had plenty of time before the 9pm start so we walked into town via the lakeside park.

In the park, ol’ Rosenbaum and Markl were at it again.

Rosenbaum, the banker, was feeling confident. He’d captured the knight in an early move and was going for four in a row here; winners stay, and losers take a seat! Markl, the baker, acted disgusted, shoving his pieces around with his foot. Was he really angry and aloof, or was it part of a plan to trick Rosenbaum into complacency, and then pounce? I tried to give a fellow goy a little advice on the best Chigoyin defense but Markl was stubborn and wouldn’t listen. It appeared he was intent on employing a Grünfeld counter-gambit anyway so we continued on into town.


I’ve had students of English who have trouble with their consonant blends. Hey, at least you’re not studying German. Try four of them together!

Is it Tschirnich or Schirnich? Make up your minds! 

I think I’ll go back to Japan and make my students correctly pronounce “dirndl”.


We found a nice, Austrian style restaurant with open-air terrace.

Best to clean the palate with a weizen.


Full of goulash, schnitzel and potatoes, we went for a coffee…well, hot chocolate, tea and lager to be exact.

 “Mohren Bräu?” Una could sooner pass for a Moor than the image on that label.

OK, it’s time to get back down to the lake and take in an opera. “An opera?!” you ask. My sentiments exactly, although the only two operas I’ve attended, La Traviata and Carmen, were both enjoyable. And all the reviewers in TripAdvisor raved about this one. A once in a lifetime event! A must do! High on the bucket list! 


No photos allowed, thankfully, so I snapped this before things got underway.

On with the Magic Flute!




Next: Goodbye Walter, old friend. Hello, Switzerland!




4 thoughts on “West to the Lake

  1. Und Die Zauberflöte? Wie war es? I’m guessing since there was no comment on it, you weren’t exactly enthralled. Das ist aber schade! It was both the first opera I learned to like, as well as my first extended contact with listening to German. I found that little church to be fascinating — almost something for everyone. Without the onion dome it looked like a Northeast church in the US. Inside it looked…well, black and white floor with white walls, almost like some of the old Midwest churches, but with Gothic like elements. Bless them, somehow it worked! Every one of your posts makes me more eager to get on the road!

    Liked by 2 people

    • We were both enthralled by the Magic Flute and I intend to say a few words next post!
      warning: My ability to review/critique food and the arts wouldn’t even get me a job at the Folsom Register or the Leavenworth Gazette.

      Liked by 1 person

      • Good! I hate snobby reviews. I want to hear how the experience was for you, not a comparison between accoustics of your al fresco experience and those of Teatro alla Scala.

        Liked by 1 person

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